Last additions
finished_2_and_3_viewed_from_exhaust_side.jpg
183 viewsJul 07, 2016
comparing_bowl_path_6_to_bowl_path_3_2_panel.jpg
179 viewsJul 05, 2016
comparing_3_to_2_2_panel.jpg
171 viewsJul 01, 2016
exhaust_ports_4_and_3_3_before_and_after.jpg
169 viewsJun 30, 2016
exhaust_ports_4_and_3.jpg
190 viewsJun 28, 2016
ost-040.jpg
164 viewsJun 28, 2016
intake_short_radius_4_and_3-vert.jpg
179 viewsJun 28, 2016
circuit_motor_removed~1.jpg
Step 09: tacho circuit and motor unit390 viewsonce you removed the five screws you can remove the unit for the conversionJun 22, 2016
unsoldered_R2.jpg
Step 12: resistor R2 (15k Ohm) partialy desoldered376 viewsresistor R2 (15k Ohm) partialy desolderedJun 22, 2016
solder_points_R2.jpg
Step 11: solder points of resistor R2 (15k Ohm)381 viewsdesolder resistor R2, locking pliers are one way to pull the resistor leg loose once the solder point is softenedJun 22, 2016
screws5.jpg
Step 08: screws (5) holding the circuit and motor in place368 viewsunscrew these 5 screws to remove the circuit and motor (the two items are fixed together and come off as one)Jun 22, 2016
resistor_R2.jpg
Step 10: resistor R2 (15k Ohm)373 viewsthis is the resistor R2 (15k Ohm) that needs to be replaced with a 10.2k Ohm unitJun 22, 2016
circuit_motor.jpg
Step 07: circuit and motor revealed368 viewsonce you removed the two fascia panels and light distribution thinggies, the circuit board and motor are revealed - this is what we have to remove in the next step.Jun 22, 2016
screws4.jpg
Step 04: fascia screws (4)363 viewsremove the 4 screws holding the two fascia panels in placeJun 22, 2016
needles.jpg
Step 03: tacho and speedo needle366 viewsremove the 2 needles, a thin fork makes it easier (just put something between the fork and fascia to prevent scratches)Jun 22, 2016
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